A CAPILLARY TREATMENT PROCESS USING A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC ACRYLIC COPOLYMER

专利摘要:
The present application relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising the following steps: applying to the keratinous fibers a composition comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group and, b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate, and, - application of heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool, the application of heat may occur before, during or after the application of the composition, preferably during or after.
公开号:FR3045376A1
申请号:FR1563082
申请日:2015-12-22
公开日:2017-06-23
发明作者:Christophe Jacques；Nicolas Daubresse；Guillaume Ronchard
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

Hair treatment process using a composition comprising at least one cationic acrylic copolymer
The present invention relates to a hair treatment process using a composition comprising at least one particular cationic acrylic copolymer.
Many non-invasive technologies exist today to meet styling / styling needs. Hair styling products are usually used to build, structure the hairstyle and give it a lasting hold. These compositions generally comprise one or more fixing film-forming polymers in a cosmetically acceptable medium. These polymers allow the formation of a sheathing film on the hair, or the formation of microswings between the hair thus ensuring the maintenance of the hairstyle.
Hair styling products are generally in the form of lacquers, foam or gel. In particular, styling gels are often used to obtain high fixations of the hairstyle. Styling gels are solutions of one or more fixing film-forming polymers, thickened or gelled with one or more thickening polymers.
However, the effects of these technologies disappear during the first shampoo and it is necessary to reapply them to achieve the desired effect. This imposes on the consumer a more or less long and tedious routine. For example, for a curly hair brushing product, after application of the styling spray, it is necessary to spread the product evenly over the whole of the hair and then blow dry, which can go from 5 to 45 min depending on the desired result . Conversely, products of durable form make it possible to permanently modify the structure of the fiber by rupture (reduction) of the disulfide bonds which impose the original shape of the hair and then re-bridging (ex: oxidation of cysteines into cystine after an action mechanical such as hair curlers in the case of perms). However, these products must be reapplied in root after regrowth to maintain a consistent result. The results are irreversible and sensitize the hair. Superimposition of straightening products for example can cause discomfort and, ultimately, cause real damage to the fiber can go to breakage. The goal of a semi-permanent styling product is to provide satisfaction with the durability of styling / styling effects after one or more shampoos while preserving the integrity of the fiber to save time and safety to the consumer. Styling / styling effect is understood to mean the performance of discipline, corporalisation, loop definition, volume control, shine, ease of shaping by natural drying, brushing and / or flat pliers, setting in folds. Ideally, this type of product is also expected to be removable by a gesture or a makeup remover composition.
In addition, the product must not generate static electricity.
There is therefore a need to formulate a treatment, in particular a treatment which confers on the fiber treated a sheathing of the fiber, which meets the following criteria: o Being adherent to the fiber and remaining perceptible after several shampoos, o Permitting to get in shape the hair easily and durably, o bring good cosmetic qualities, o be easy to use without risk of damaging the hair, o be compatible with hair treatments conventionally used (shampoos, conditioners, colorations) but also with sebum .
It has now been found that the use of a composition containing at least one particular cationic acrylic polymer, preferably insoluble in water, combined with the use of a heating tool, for example a hair dryer or an iron to smooth allows to generate a cladding around the hair fiber, remanent to shampoos, which provides the desired styling properties while being respectful of the fiber. This sheathing is, in addition, remanent to shampoos. In addition, this composition applied according to this process has good qualities of use (distribution, disentangling of dry and wet hair, individualization). The invention therefore particularly relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising the following steps: -application on the keratin fibers of a composition comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group and, b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate, and - application of heat to the keratin fibers using of a heating tool, the application of heat may occur before, during or after the application of the composition, preferably during or after.
It has been observed that the fibers thus treated have a residual cladding to the shampoos. The composition applied according to this process confers shaping properties and has good qualities of use (distribution, disentangling of dry and wet hair, individualization) at application and after shampooing. Other features, aspects, objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and the examples which follow.
In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
The term "keratinous fibers" according to the present application denotes human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair.
Application step
The method according to the invention comprises a step of application to the keratinous fibers of a composition.
copolymer
The composition that is useful according to the process according to the invention comprises at least one acrylic cationic copolymer, comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one group cationic and, b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl radical comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 22 carbon atoms, better 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms .
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "compound or cationic group" means a compound or group carrying a permanent cationic charge or a charge obtained by protonation of a (cationizable) function, such as an amine function by the protons of the middle.
Preferably, the copolymer according to the invention is insoluble in water. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "insoluble in water" means a compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 × 10 5 Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1% more preferably 0.1%).
Preferably, the acrylic cationic copolymer contains c) at least one third unit obtained from a polymerizable ethylenic monomer, preferably from a monomer of the following formula:
in which R and R ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 10, preferably C 1 -C 4, alkyl radical; preferably R is a methyl radical; more preferably, R is a methyl radical and R 'is an ethyl radical; x ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, better x is 1.
More particularly, the acrylic cationic copolymer present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least units obtained from the following two lists of monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic grouping of following formulas
in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate C1-C30, preferably C1-C22, preferably C1-C10, more preferably C2-C6.
Even more preferentially, the acrylic cationic copolymer present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group of the following formulas:
in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R.4, R-5, R-6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide, preferably the formulas (I) and (II) b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate C1-C30, preferably C1-C22, preferentially C1-C10, better still C2-C6 and c) polymerizable ethylenic monomer, preferably from a monomer of the following formula
in which R and R ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 10, preferably C 1 -C 4, alkyl radical; preferably R is a methyl radical; more preferably, R is a methyl radical and R 'is an ethyl radical; x ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, better x is 1.
Even more particularly, the composition useful in the process according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) a monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters of formula (I), or ( II) as described above, preferably of formula (II), b) a C 1 -C 22, preferably C 1 -C 10, better still C 2 -C 6, alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomer c) a monomer of formula (A) ') as previously described
In particular, the composition comprises one or more cationic acrylic copolymers, preferably water insoluble in the following units: a) Methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt, b) Butyl methacrylate and c) Ethoxyethyl methacrylate.
Such copolymers are for example described in JP5745266. Preferably, the polymer contains the three preceding monomers in the following proportions relative to the total of monomer units, by weight in the copolymer constituted, without taking into account their salts: a) In a proportion of 0.5 to 20%, preferably between 1 and 5%; b) in a proportion of from 20 to 98%, preferably from 40 to 97% and c) in a proportion of from 1.5 to 95%, preferably from 2 to 55%.
Preferably, the copolymer is not amphoteric, that is to say that it does not comprise units carrying an anionic charge.
Preferably, the units of the copolymer are all methacrylate derivatives.
Even more particularly, the copolymer responds to the INCI Polyquaternium-99 denomination copolymer, such as, for example, the polymer marketed by GOO-CHEMICAL under the name Plascize L-514.
It is the butyl methacrylate / ethoxyethyl methacrylate / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, at 30% in ethanol:
The content of copolymer in the composition useful in the process according to the invention may vary from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
solvents
The composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium which generally comprises water, non-aqueous solvents, silicone solvents and their mixture.
More particularly, the organic solvents are chosen from monoalcohols or diols, linear or branched, preferably saturated, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2- methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
More particularly, the silicone solvents are chosen from volatile and non-volatile silicones.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula:
Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon may also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa). -2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".
Preferably, the alcohols are preferred, and more particularly ethanol is preferred
When present, the usual organic solvents described above usually represent from 1 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 60% by weight, preferably from 3 to 55% by weight, better still from 8 to 50% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition useful in the process according to the invention is non-coloring.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-coloring composition" means a composition which does not comprise a direct dye, an oxidation dye precursor (oxidation base and coupler) or any other compound which, by reaction, gives a colored species. in the composition or on the fibers, usually used for coloring human keratin fibers or, if it comprises, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratin fibers.
It is recalled that the oxidation dye precursors, oxidation bases and couplers, are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species. As for direct dyes, these compounds are colored and have a certain affinity for keratinous fibers.
The composition useful in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more additives chosen from a thickening polymer, a surfactant, a conditioning agent such as functionalized silicones, a fatty substance and their mixture.
Thickening
The composition may especially comprise one or more inorganic thickening agents chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130®", "AEROSIL 200®", "AEROSIL 255®", "AEROSIL 300®", "AEROSIL 380®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O- SIL HS-5® "," CAB-O-SIL EH-5® "," CAB-O-SIL LM-130® "," CAB-O-SIL MS-55® "," CAB-O-SIL M -5® "by the company Cabot.
It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R812®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530®" by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972®", "AEROSIL R974®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by the company Pooch.
The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified pyrogenic silica.
When present, the mineral thickening agent may represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition may also include one or more organic thickeners.
These thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose). , guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones) and fatty-chain hydrophobic regions (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules).
According to a particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, gum scleroglucan), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethyl cellulose.
The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
surfactants
According to a particular embodiment of the invention the composition further comprises one or more surfactants.
In particular, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic and preferably cationic surfactants.
The cationic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the process of the invention comprise, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example: - those having the following general formula (A4):
(A4)
Formula (A4) in which:
Rg to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups Rg to Ru comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X ', represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylaryls. sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
The aliphatic groups of R "to R" may further comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups Rg to Rn are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkylamido groups. ), C 1 -C 22 alkyl acetate and C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl X is an anionic counterion selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulfates, C 1 -C 4 alkyl- or alkyl (Ci-C4) arylsulphonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A4), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK; the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (A5) below:
(AT 5)
Formula (A5) in which:
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids;
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;
R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group; X 'represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates; .
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (A6) below:
(A6)
Formula (III) in which:
Ri6 denotes an alkyl group having about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;
R 7 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a), X ';
Ri6a, Ri7a, Risa, Ris, R19, R20 and R2i, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X ', which are identical or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkyl. -C4) aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75); quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (A7) below:
(A7)
Formula (A7) wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl; R23 is selected from: - the group
the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based R27 groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:
the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based R 29 groups, the hydrogen atom, R 24, R 26 and R 28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups; branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers of 2 to 6, r 1 and t 1, which are identical or different, equal to 0 or 1 with r 2 + r 1 = 2 r and t 1 + t 2 = 2 t y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, X 'represents an anionic counterion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and when z is 0 then R25 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon radical R 29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anionic counterion X 'is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate; (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.
The anionic counterion X 'is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.
In the composition used in the process according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (A7) are used more particularly in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1, - z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: • the group
• methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, • the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: • the group
The hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R.28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from alkyl and alkenyl groups; C13-C17, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
Examples of the compounds of formula (A7) that may be mentioned include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium salt, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethylimethylammonium salt, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or with transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate. methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
The composition useful in the process according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
Preferably the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition, it is more particularly preferred to choose the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C (O) OH, -C (O) O ', -SO3H, -S (O) 20, -OS (O) 20H, -SO (O) 20 - P (O) OH 2, -P (O) 20 -, - P (O) O 2 -, -P (OH) 2, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O = P (O) O ' , = POH, = PO ', the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as those derived from an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an amine or an ammonium. As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alpha olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoester salts and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-acid salts, carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, alkyl and acyl groups of or these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates. of C6-C24 alkyl.
When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Of the abovementioned anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal or ammonium salts. , aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.
In particular, it is preferred to use the (C 12 -C 20) alkylsulphates, the (C 12 -C 20) alkyl ethersulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts. , and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s), preferably non-silicone, which may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 8 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 20) alkylamidalkyl (C 6 -C 8) sulphobetaines.
Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of the following respective structures (Al) and (A2):
Ra-C (O) -NH-CH2-CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2C (O) O ·, M +, X '(Al)
Formula (Al) in which:
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an RaCOOH acid, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X ', represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X 'are absent;
Ra -C (O) -NH-CH 2 -CH 2 -N (B) (B ') (A2)
Formula (A2) wherein: B represents the group -CH2-CH2-0-X '; B 'represents the group - (CH2) ZY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-CH2-C (O) OZ ', or an atom hydrogen; Y 'represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra -C (O) OH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C17 group, and iso form, an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
It is also possible to use compounds of formula (A3);
Ra "-N (H) -CH (Y") - (CH2) n-C (O) -N (H) - (CH2) n -N (Rd) (Re) (A3)
Formula (A3) in which: Y "represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ", -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '';
Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
Ra "represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid
Ra "-C (O) OH is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil. n and n ', independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (A3), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl (C 3 -C 8) amidoalkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine.
Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. As examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; • C8-C30 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; • C8-C30 amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acid esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan; Esters of sucrose fatty acids; alkyl (C 8 -C 30) polyglycosides, alkenyl (C 8 -C 30) polyglycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl esters; (C8-C30) glucosides, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures; N-alkyl (C8-C30) glucamine and N-acyl (C8-C30) -methylglucamine derivatives; • aldobionamides; • amine oxides; Oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones; the surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene preferably ranging from 1 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles, more particularly from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acid esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan comprising from 1 to 100 moles, more preferably from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide. As an example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, are preferably used.
In particular, mono- or poly-glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula (A8): R290- [CH2-CH (CH20H) -O] m -H (A8)
Formula (A8) wherein: R29 represents a linear or branched, C8-C40, preferably C8-C30, alkyl or alkenyl radical; and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds of formula (A8) suitable within the scope of the invention, mention may be made of 4 mole lauric alcohol glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol of formula (A8) may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixed.
Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs / Cio alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the alcohol with C10 / C12 with 1 mole of glycerol and the alcohol with C12 with 1.5 mole of glycerol.
The surfactants may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .
Functionalised silicones
The composition may comprise an organomodified polysiloxane comprising at least one functional group preferably chosen from amino groups, alkoxy groups, hydroxyl groups and reactive groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.
The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups as mentioned previously, attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
The organomodified silicone or silicones may be chosen from one or more amino silicones. By aminosilicone is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
The weight average molecular weights of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25 ° C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. The detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
Preferably, the silicone (s) amino (s) may be used in the context of the invention, are chosen from: a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
(A) wherein x 'and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is from about 5,000 to about 500,000; b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R'aG3.a-Si (OSiG2) n- (OSiGbR, 2-b) m -O-SiG3-aR, a (B) in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C 1 -C 8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C 1 -C 5 alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n which can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10; R ', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups -N (R ") 2; -N + (R ") 3 A-; -NR "-QN (R") 2 and -NR "-Q-N + (R") 3 A-, wherein R ", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, by for example, a C1-C20 alkyl radical, Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4, and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicone compounds of formula (B) are chosen from amino silicones corresponding to formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), and / or (G) below.
According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C):
(C) wherein m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10.
According to a second embodiment, the aminated amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below:
(D) wherein: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n can denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - RI, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or C1-C4 alkoxy, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3: 1.
The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000. According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from silicones of formula (E) below:
(E) wherein: p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p may designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q may denote a number from 1 to 1000, especially from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - RI, R2, different, represent a hydroxyl radical or C1-C4 alkoxy, at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is generally from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1 and preferably from 1: 0.9 to 1: 1 and more particularly is equal to 1: 0.95.
The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is provided by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is proposed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any kind but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is generally from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, especially as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive). Thus, it is possible to use according to the invention the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) proposed under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by WACKER.
According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (F):
(F) in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149; and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, the XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from Dow Corning.
According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (G):
(G) in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones is preferably from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566
Amino Fluid from Dow Corning. c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
(H) in which: R 5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond; Q - is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
Such amino silicones are especially described in US Pat. No. 4,185,087. D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):
(I) in which: R 7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-C 18 alkyl radical, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 5, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond; R-8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical, a radical -R6-NHCOR7; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. e) the amino silicones of formula (J):
(J) in which: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, n is an integer varying from 1 to 5, - m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g. f) polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones of (AB) n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulas: [- (SiMe20) xSiMe2 - R -N (R ") - R'-O (C2H40) a (C3H60) b -R'-N (H) -R-] or [- (SiMe20) xSiMe2 - R -N (R ") - R '- O (C2H40) a (C3H60) b -] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100; b is an integer from 0 to 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more preferably from 5 to 30; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more preferably from 10 to 5000; - R "is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; -R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical C2-C12, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, preferably R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a radical -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (CH) CH 2 -, preferably R denotes a radical --CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (CH) CH 2 - R ', which may be identical or different, represent a divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, preferably R 'denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a radical -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (OH) CH 2 -, preferentially R 'denotes -CH (CH 3) -CH 2 -,
The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more preferably 70 to 85 mol%.
The level of amine is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000. In particular, mention may be made of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A + by Momentive. g) and their mixtures.
Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones.
The functionalized silicone may be an alkoxylated silicone, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.
The functionalized silicone may be a silicone with a hydroxyl group (s), such as, for example, alpha, omega-dihydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, such as INCI dimethiconol-denominated compounds, alone in emulsion or in a mixture, of which the dimethicone / dimethiconol mixture sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID by Dow Corning or the dimethiconol / dimethicone / isohexadecane mixture and isoparaffin marketed under the name XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID by DOW CORNING
The composition useful in the process according to the invention may comprise the functionalized silicone or silicones, preferably amino, in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fat body
The composition may comprise one or more fatty substances different from the functionalized silicones as described above.
By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 × 10 5 Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%). even more preferentially at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The fatty substances of the invention do not contain salified carboxylic acid groups.
In addition, the fatty substances of the invention are not (poly) oxyalkylenated or (poly) glycerolated ethers.
By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa).
The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
More particularly, the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, in particular plant-based waxes, non-silicone waxes, silicones other than functionalized silicones, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.
As regards the C6-C16 hydrocarbons, the latter are more particularly linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® , and their mixtures. As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
Triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptatonic or octanoic acids, or even more particularly from those present in vegetable oils such as for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba, shea butter oil or synthetic triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof.
As fluorinated oils, there may be mentioned perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl burgperfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.
The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, and oleic alcohol. , linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above and non-silicone waxes; mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric aliphatic esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric alcohols or alcohols; total carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy C1-C26
These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acid sugars, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters.
More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F1, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, designating sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester, and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetraester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax or rice wax. hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
The silicones that may be used in the composition of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m 2 / s.
The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Preferably, the silicone or silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs).
Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, and mixtures thereof are preferably used.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.
More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is a SF gum Corresponding to a dimethicone having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.
The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . some oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
Preferably, the one or more fatty substances are non-silicone.
The fatty substance or fats are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, C6-C16 alkanes, vegetable oils or triglycerides, liquid synthetic triglycerides, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters. and / or different fatty alcohol triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the fatty substance (s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly and liquid fatty alcohols such as octyl-2-dodecanol and stearyl alcohol.
additives
The composition useful in the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more additives. As additive usable according to the invention, mention may be made of cationic polymers different from those defined above, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or mixtures thereof, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, anti-hair loss agents and / or or hair regrowth, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, inorganic or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, anti-aging agents antioxidants, oxyacids, perfumes, preservatives and ceramides.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged .
The above additives may generally be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the pH varies from 3 to 11, and preferably from 4 to 9.
The composition useful in the process according to the invention may be in the form of wax, paste, cream, foam, spray (pump and aerosol), lotion. It may comprise one or more phases.
The composition may be applied to damp or dry hair, preferably moist, with or without exposure time.
In the case where a exposure time is implemented, it is between 2 minutes and one hour. The exposure time can be carried out under heat, and in particular under an occlusive system type papillotes.
The bath ratio of the formulation applied to the hair may be between 0.05 and 10, and more particularly between 0.05 and 5.
The hair is optionally rinsed and / or dewatered in order to remove an excess of composition.
Heating step The step of bringing the keratinous fibers into contact with a heating means may be carried out by means of any heating device.
One or more heating tools can be applied in a single or successive manner on the hair. The application of heat can be carried out at a temperature between 40 and 250 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 250 ° C and more preferably between 100 ° C and 210 ° C. The application of the heat can be carried out for a duration of between 2 seconds and one hour, and preferably between 2 seconds and a minute. The application of the heating means can be done by successive keys or by sliding the device along the fibers. The heating tool may be a hair straightener, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a scraper iron, a helmet, a hair dryer, an infra-red heating system, a heating curler. The step of applying the heat can take place before, during or after the step of applying the composition, preferably during or after the step of applying the composition. More preferentially, the step of applying the heat occurs after the application of the composition. A possible exposure time may occur between the application of the composition and the application of heat
EXAMPLES 1. Preparation of the compositions
The compositions A and B according to the invention and the comparative composition C were prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which are indicated in the table below in percentage by weight.
(1) Plascize L-514 (2) Clariant KPMD genomics 2. Application Protocols The application protocols were as follows:
2. Evaluation and results
The evaluation protocol after drying is:
Evaluation of the impact on the shape, the cosmetic criteria (touch) and aspect (macroscopic, visualization SEM)
The evaluation protocol for the remanence is as follows. Realization of several cycles:
Humidification of the hair
Shampoo
Rinsing Drying with a hair dryer
Evaluation of the impact on shape, cosmetic (touch) and appearance criteria (macroscopic, SEM visualization) 3.1 Macroscopic aspects
Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) observations reveal the surface condition of the treated hair, on the day of application and after shampooing, and reveal the deposit of cosmetic product and its persistence.
With the composition A according to the invention and following the protocol according to the invention, it has been observed a uniform homogeneous cladding and covering of the fiber. This sheathing is residual up to 10 shampoos.
With the composition A according to the invention and following the comparative protocol, inhomogeneous, irregular cladding was observed in the form of aggregates. In addition, the deposit is only very remanent on the fiber after shampooing and completely disappeared after 10 shampoos.
Thus, the heat allows a better distribution and a better adhesion of the polymer on the fiber which allows the remanence of effects to shampoos.
With comparative composition C and following the protocol according to the invention, no cladding is formed. 3.2 Cosmetic aspects
With the composition A according to the invention and following the protocol according to the invention, the sheathing provides a mass effect, corporalisation, styling to the hair and a reinforcement T0 and after shampooing. The formatting is facilitated. The split ends are rewelded together, up to at least 10 shampoos.
With composition A according to the invention and following the comparative protocol, the wick has an inhomogeneous sheathed feel. There is no effect of shaping or care perceptible after 1 cycle shampooing / blow drying.
With the comparative composition C and following the protocol according to the invention, the touch has not been modified.

权利要求:
Claims (12)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
1. A method for treating keratinous fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of: -applying to the keratinous fibers a composition comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derivative of acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group and, b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate, and - application of heat to the keratinous fibers using a heating tool, application of the heat that can occur before, during or after the application of the composition, preferably during or after.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic acrylic copolymer present in the composition contains c) at least one third unit obtained from a polymerizable ethylenic monomer, preferably from a monomer of the following formula:

in which R and R ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 10 alkyl radical, preferably a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical; preferably R is a methyl radical; more preferably, R is a methyl radical and R 'is an ethyl radical; x ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, better x is 1.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acrylic cationic copolymer present in the composition comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group of the following formulas:

in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R-5, Re, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide; b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate C1-C30, preferably C1-C22, preferably C1-C10, more preferably C2-C6.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acrylic cationic copolymer present in the composition comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group of the following formulas:

in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R-5, Re, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide; b) acrylate monomer or alkyl methacrylate C1-C30, preferably C1-C22, preferably C1-C10, more preferably C2-C6; and c) polymerizable ethylenic monomer, preferably from a monomer of the following formula

in which R and R ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 10, preferably C 1 -C 4, alkyl radical; preferably R is a methyl radical; more preferably, R is a methyl radical and R 'is an ethyl radical; x ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, better x is 1.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acrylic cationic copolymer present in the composition comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) Methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt, b) Butyl methacrylate and c) Ethoxyethyl methacrylate.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, of cationic acrylic copolymer relative to the total weight of the composition.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises one or more additives chosen from a thickening polymer, a surfactant, a functionalized silicone, a fatty substance and their mixture.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heat is applied to the fibers between 40 ° C and 250 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 250 ° C and more preferably between 100 ° C and 210 ° C ° C.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heat is applied to the fibers for a period of between 2 seconds and one hour, and preferably between 2 seconds and a minute.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heating tool is selected from a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a vaguest iron, a helmet, a hair dryer, an infra-red heating system, a heating curler.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the bath ratio of the composition applied to the hair is between 0.05 and 10, and more particularly between 0.05 and 5.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the step of applying heat takes place after the step of applying the composition.

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FR3008887A1|2013-07-26|2015-01-30|Oreal|METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR WITH AT LEAST ONE POLYMER FUNCTIONALIZED BY AT LEAST ONE ALCOXYSILANE MOTIF AND AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC POLYMER|

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FR3010311A1|2013-09-12|2015-03-13|Oreal|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH POLYSACCHARIDE AND SILANE ADDED IN WATER|WO2020084079A1|2018-10-25|2020-04-30|L'oreal|Hair shaping process using a composition comprising at least one silicone acrylic copolymer|BR0304414A|2002-04-10|2005-02-01|Mnemoscience Gmbh|Process for producing shape memory effects on hair|FR3066387B1|2017-05-19|2020-03-20|L'oreal|HAIR COSMETIC PROCESSING METHOD USING A CATIONIC ACRYLIC COPOLYMER AND A CONDITIONING AGENT|

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FR3087654B1|2018-10-25|2020-10-09|Oreal|PROCESS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINIC FIBERS IMPLEMENTING A COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC ACRYLIC COPOLYMER AND AT LEAST ONE PIGMENT|

法律状态:
2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2017-06-23| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20170623 |

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2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1563082A|FR3045376B1|2015-12-22|2015-12-22|A CAPILLARY TREATMENT PROCESS USING A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC ACRYLIC COPOLYMER|

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FR1563082|2015-12-22|FR1563082A| FR3045376B1|2015-12-22|2015-12-22|A CAPILLARY TREATMENT PROCESS USING A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC ACRYLIC COPOLYMER|

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ES16815873T| ES2791498T3|2015-12-22|2016-12-22|Hair treatment method using a composition comprising at least one cationic acrylic copolymer|

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US16/063,770| US20200268635A1|2015-12-22|2016-12-22|Hair treatment process using a composition comprising at least one cationic acrylic copolymer|

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JP2018532656A| JP6880031B2|2015-12-22|2016-12-22|Hair treatment method using a composition containing at least one cationic acrylic copolymer|

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EP16815873.1A| EP3393594B1|2015-12-22|2016-12-22|Hair treatment process using a composition comprising at least one cationic acrylic copolymer|

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PCT/EP2016/082503| WO2017109146A1|2015-12-22|2016-12-22|Hair treatment process using a composition comprising at least one cationic acrylic copolymer|